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Thursday, August 11, 2016

Lacy Leaf Baby Cardigan



The cardigan is in size to fit 24-inch chest.Honestly, I think the motif would be more prominent with a
more rigorous blocking. 












So happy my colleague loves it and bought it instantaneously upon seeing it!








As you've noticed from my previous baby bonnet pattern, I LOVE LOVE LOVE lacy leaf motif and try to incorporate them whenever and wherever I can in my patterns. Here is the pattern of a feminine lacy baby cardigan/ sweater I made using blended cotton a while ago, before I gave birth to my now 10-month old daughter.


This sweet card is suitable as a layering clothing. It is knitted top down, and the sleeves are made by picking up stitches left on waste yarn during splitting for sleeves. The yoke is in stockinet stitch and the increase is raglan style, which means there's basically no room for confusion in increasing! To add feminine flair to this lovely piece, lacy leaf stitch is started after the underarm.

Materials needed: 

Yarn : see table for yardage 
Needles : 3mm 60cm-long circular needles, 3mm dpn

Notions : markers, darning needle, buttons.


Gauge: 27 stitches x 36 rows = 4 x 4 inches on 3mm needles

Abbreviations:
CO : cast on
k : knit
k2tog : knit 2 together 
kfbf : knit front and back and front (increase 3 stitches)
m1L : make one left
m1R : make one right 
p : purl
mb : make bobble 
pm : place marker
psso : pass slipped st over
R : row
WS : wrong side
RS : right side 
sm : slip marker
ssk : slip first st purlwise, slip second st knit wise, pass  
          both st back to left needle, knit both st together 
st : stitch
yo : yarn over


Make bobble:
Small bobble: (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) in a single st, k5 together
Large bobble: (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) in a single st, turn, p5, turn, k5, turn, p2tog, p1, p2tog, turn, slip one knitwise, k2tog, psso.
Sizes: To fit chest of 15, 17, 18 and 22 inches

Neck band:
CO 46 (55, 59, 73) st.
R1 (WS): *p1, k1* repeat **.
R2 (RS): increase 8 st evenly. Note: I used kfbf (57, 63, 67, 81 st).
R3 & R5: repeat R1
R4: increase 8 st evenly. Note: I used kfbf (62, 71, 75, 89 st)

Continue to yoke.
Yoke:
R1 (RS): k9 (k12, k12, k15), m1L, k1, pm, k1, m1R, k9( k10, k10, k12), m1L, k1, pm, k1, m1R, k18 (k19, k21, k27), m1L, k1, pm, k1, m1R, k9 (k10, k10, k12), m1L, k1, pm, k1, m1R, k9 (k12, k12, k15).

R2 (WS) and all WS: p

R3 and all RS: k to first st before marker, m1L, k1, sm, k1, m1R, k to first st before marker, m1L, k1, sm, k1, m1R, k to first st before marker, m1L, k1, sm, k1, m1R, k to first st before marker, m1L, k1, sm, k1, m1R, k till last st
Repeat R2 & R3 until there are 158 (183, 211, 257) st on the needles. Count the st at the WS.

Split for sleeves: k26 (k30, k36, k37), place 28 (30, 36, 56) st on waste yarn, back loop cast on 4 st, k57 (k63, k67, k71), place 28 (30, 36, 56) st on waste yarn, back loop cast on 4 st, k26 (k30, k36, k37).

Continue to body.


Body:
For all sizes:
Knit stockinette stitch for 3 rows, end with row on WS.

R1: k3, *k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3* until the last 11 st, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4.
R2 & all WS: p
R3: k3, *k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k2* until the last 11 st, k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k3.
R5: k3, *k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k1* until the last 11 st, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k2.
R7: k1, k2tog, *k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, slip 1 purlwise, k2tog, psso* until the last 10 st, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssk, k1.
R9: k3, *yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k1* until the last 11 st, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k2.
R11: k3, *yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k1* until the last 11 st, yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k2.
R13: k3, *yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1* until the last 11 st, yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k2.
R15: k3, *yo, k3, slip 1 purlwise, k2tog, psso, k3, yo, k1* until the last 10 st, yo, k3, ssk, k3, yo, k2.

R17 - R32: repeat R1 - R16.

(R33 - R46): (Only for 20- and 24-inch chest)
R33: k3, *k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3* until the last 11 st, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4.
R35: k3, *k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k2* until the last 11 st, k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k3.
R37: k3, *k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k1* until the last 11 st, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k2.
R39: k1, k2tog, * k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, slip 1 purlwise, k2tog, psso* until the last 10 st, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssk, k1.
R41: k3, *yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k1* until the last 11 st, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k2. 
R43: k1, *yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k1* until last 11 st, yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k2.
R45: k3, *k3, mb, k1, mb, k4* until last 11 st, k3, mb, k1, mb, k5.
R47: k3, * k4, mb, k5* until last 11 st, k4, mb,k6.

Continue with stockinette at for 3 rows, end with row on WS.
Continue hemming using mistake rib hem.
Sleeves:
Using double pointed needles, pick up 28 (30, 36, 56) st on waste yarn and 4 st casted on using back loop CO.
pm at the middle of armpit section.

17-inch chest:
K for 7 rows, sm, k1, k2tog, k till last 3 st, ssk, k1. (2 st decreased).
k for 7 rows.
Continue with R1-R16 for body.

19-inch chest:
K for 7 rows, sm, k1, k2tog, k till last 3 st, ssk, k1. (2 st decreased).
Decrease 1 more times.
k for 7 rows. 
Continue with R1-R16 for body.

20-inch chest
K for 7 rows, sm, k1, k2tog, k till last 3 st, ssk, k1. (2 st decreased). Decrease 3 more times. 
k 4 rows.
Continue with R1-R16 for body.

24-inch chest:
K for 7 rows, sm, k1, k2tog, k till last 3 st, ssk, k1. (2 st decreased). Decrease 4 more times. 
Continue with R1-R16 for body.

Mistake rib hem:
R1 (RS): k
R2 (WS): *p1, k1*, repeat **, end with p1 on the last st.
Repeat R1 and Rs for 5 more times.

Bind off using Elizabeth Zimmerman’s long tail bind off (to match my long tail CO), you can use any bind off method you like instead.
Download pdf file on Ravelry.

Tell me what you think of this pattern! I'd love to hear your thoughts! Enjoy knitting and share your finished projects (here or ravelry). =)

8 comments:

  1. would you please explain the body R1 instructions. I am having trouble with the stitch count. If I add the total stitches from the split for sleeves I come up to 117 (first size used in pattern), but pattern for body doesn't work out for R1, between * is 10 stitches correct?

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hi Kathy,
    I'm very sorry for the mistake. And for the delayed reply. I should have typed 46 st as cast on and yoke row 1: k9, m1, k1, pm, k1, m1, k9, m1, k1, pm, k1, m1, k18, m1, k1, pm, k1, m1, k9, m1, k1, pm, k1, m1, k9 (62 sts). Body row 1 should be 114 sts. And yes you're right, lace is 10 sts repeat. I'm sorry again for the mistake. I think you can decrease 3 stars evenly before you start lace repeat row 1.

    Best,
    SooFen

    ReplyDelete
  3. I too am having trouble with stitch count. I am making 18 inch size and all good until I get to the body. When the split row has been done there should be 147 but body pattern row count is 144. Am I counting correctly? What am I doing wrong? Please help

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hi Carolyn,

    I'm very sorry for the mistake. I think you're good with 144 st for the body as its 10's repeat + 14 st. Correction: cast on 56 st. Row 1 for yoke should be: k11, m1L, k1, pm, k1, m1R, k10, m1L, k1, pm, k1, m1R, k22, m1L, k1, pm, k1, m1R, k10, m1L, k1, pm, k1, m1R, k11. Increase by 8-point increase for 24 rows then you'll have 144 st. THANK YOU SO MUCH for your comment in fixing it. Split for body: k24, sm, pass 36 st on waste yarn on hold, continue knitting 48 st, sm, pass 36 st on waste yarn on hold, k24 st. Then you can join to start making lace panel for body. Many thanks again. Hope my comment helps.

    Best,
    SooFen

    ReplyDelete
  5. I don't see where the pattern tells how to do the front bands and buttonholes.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Is the pdf on Ravelry correct for the stitch count?

    ReplyDelete
  7. Thank you, I will try this soon!!

    ReplyDelete
  8. You should addhow ro make the front bands for the button and button holes as it is missing in the pattern

    ReplyDelete